Stratford: The Art of Hospitality

Many people think Stratford, Ontario has Much Ado About Nothing but theatre. The truth is, however, that although this quaint Southwestern Ontario city is most known for its long-running Shakespearian festival, the largest in North America, this is only one piece (albeit large piece) of fabric in Stratford's colourful quilt. Stratford is a cultural haven defined by the galleries, theatres, live music and eclectic shops found in abundance throughout the city. Those who visit Stratford are lucky enough to experience the kind of hospitality and charm that only proud citizens can provide. In name and spirit, Stratford, with its historical buildings and captivating landscape, looks as if it were plucked from an English countryside. Visitors can even experience the city from the top of a red, double-decker bus.

HISTORY AND ECONOMY

	Bust of William Shakespeare

Stratford couldn't have a more fascinating history, even if it had been written by the Bard himself. It's a story that has all the elements of a good plot - discovery, rebellion, demise, recovery and a fairytale ending.

After the war of 1812 against the United States, it had become very clear to the British that the area along the shores of Lake Ontario and Lake Erie were too unpopulated and posed a threat to the security of the province. On July 30, 1824, backed by hundreds of private investors, the Canada Company was formed in London, England. Its purpose was to buy large sections of land in Upper Canada to promote settlement in the British Colony. The government of Upper Canada sold the Huron Tract, a band of land encompassing Stratford and most of Perth County, to the company in 1826, and shortly thereafter, William "Tiger" Dunlop, an agent for the company, set the stakes for what would eventually become The Festival City (Stratford).

By 1832, while not yet officially named, Stratford began to take mold as a town that would be closely tied to its English roots. William Sargint, an Englishman, erected the Shakespeare Inn and Tavern. In celebration, Thomas Mercer Jones, a director of the Canada Co. gave Sargint a portrait of the English Bard. This move would give Stratford its name and led to the renaming of the creek known as Little Thames to Avon River. Today, a stone marks the site of the original Shakespeare Inn, near 70 Ontario Street, which was destroyed by fire in 1849.

While arts and tourism now account for the majority of Stratford's economy, it wasn't always that way. Stratford made its beginnings as an industrial centre, shaped by the coming of the railway. The arrival of the Grand Trunk Railway and the Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway in 1856, was responsible for rapid growth, both in population and economically by connecting Stratford to the rest of Canada. Because exporting was no longer an issue, Stratford attracted more business, especially in the industrial sector. Both railways were amalgamated and bought by the Canadian National Railway (CNR) in 1923.

By 1886, Stratford had a lot to celebrate. It had just officially been incorporated as a city and was in the beginning stages of major industrial expansion, which continued into the 1920s. The arrival of the furniture industry would sustain much of this growth and eventually became one of Stratford's main exports. At one point, Stratford was home to 13 furniture manufacturing companies that were among the largest in the country, accounting for nearly one-sixth of Canada's total furniture production.

Stratford made a permanent mark in Canada's history in 1933 when what started as a general strike, involving furniture workers and chicken pluckers, quickly led to an unruly revolt - one of the biggest of its kind in Canada. The uprising became so severe, local government ordered military action to quench the fighting. For a few years afterward, hard feelings remained between government, workers and management. The furniture industry would never fully recover from the Depression and advances in technology led to the closure of Stratford's locomotive shops.

Stratford's name foreshadowed the city's destiny, but theatre hadn't even entered the scene until the early 1950s. In 1952 Tom Patterson, a Stratford-born writer for MacLean's Magazine approached council with the idea to establish a Shakespeare festival in his hometown. Stratford already had strong musical associations and the city's summer air was filled with the sounds of music festivals, but theatre was still a major consideration. Until this point, Stratford's name was its only connection with theatre and the city wasn't exactly brimming with theatre types. Even still, with the rapid decline in industry, city officials were willing to entertain almost any idea.

Festival Theatre's Original Tent Building

Patterson was the main actor in opening the doors to the Stratford Shakespeare Festival (now just called the Stratford Festival). It wasn't exactly a smooth ride, and the project was almost completely cancelled more than once. In the end, it was Stratford's residents who footed most of the bill, through donations and drives. So, by the time opening night had rolled around, the entire town, who had already placed all their eggs in one big canvass tent, watched in angst as the theatre filled to capacity with well-wishers and skeptics alike. On July 13, 1953, the Stratford Festival wrote its own history as the curtain raised for the first time.

Fifty years, four buildings and millions of people later, the Stratford Festival has become the largest classic repertory theatre in North America. Each year, between the end of May and September, the Festival hosts scores of international visitors. In 2002, the Stratford Festival celebrated its biggest turnout ever at a whopping 672,924 theatre-goers - over 20 times its population.

Although tourism and industry now share the spotlight in Stratford, the transition wasn't necessarily a smooth one. As blue-collar workers mingled with theatre's butterfly-collar performers, worlds often collided. Even today, there is a section of the population who has never attended a festival production, nor do they plan to.

CLIMATE

Stratford is a part of Ontario's Heartland, an area that has naturally carved landscape, rolling hills and fertile soil due to its high precipitation.

Stratford's climate is moderated by the surrounding Great Lakes and, as a result, is lucky enough to escape the harsh weather that can often plague the rest of Canada. Southwestern Ontario appeals to those who like moderate weather whatever the season - that's not to say that this city doesn't see its fair share of extreme weather, both hot and cold, but those days aren't as common. Due to Stratford's geographical position, it enjoys four distinct seasons, which affords a wide variety of recreational activities.

The winter season, December to March, averages a balmy -5°C (23°F) but temperatures can reach well below that. Snowfall usually begins in late October and can continue well into March, sometimes April. Stratford's summer temperatures average 18.5°C (65°F) The city is within close proximity to three of the Great Lakes, resulting in a humid climate. The humid conditions can make the temperature feel much hotter than it actually is so air conditioning can be crucial in beating the heat. Summer extends from about June to September. Visitors will want to keep their umbrella handy during July through September, when rainfall is at its peak.

Fall days in Stratford are usually sun filled and the evenings are pleasant. These temperate conditions are perfect for spending a day at one of the many natural areas in an around Stratford. There's nothing more serene and calming than a late-afternoon stroll around the scenic Avon River, through sun-kissed, crimson-coloured poplars and weeping willows.

The best way to defend against Stratford's fluctuating weather patterns is to pack with all seasons in mind, within reason of course. Guests traveling here in the summer should bring an umbrella and light sweater for evening outings. Winter adventurers should pack with the ability to layer clothing and bring along a good winter jacket. Sunscreen is a good idea whatever the season.

	A View of the Avon River

TRANSPORTATION

Stratford is accessible from all major centres usually with little delays or stopovers. While major commercial airlines do not support Stratford's municipal airport, flights are available to London, Ontario, which is a quick 60 km (37 mi) away. The London International Airport offers daily service to and from most major Canadian centres as well as the Detroit Metro Airport.

Visitors may also choose to travel to Stratford by bus. Greyhound Bus service is generally one of the most cost effective ways to enter the city, the trade-off being the longer amount of time it takes getting there. Two buses depart from Toronto to Stratford daily and there are also two departures daily from Detroit, which is approximately a five-hour ride.

Passengar Railis still used in many Canadian cities. Canada's VIA Rail and the U.S. version, Amtrak, both have stations in Stratford. This form of transportation is usually a little faster than driving, depending on how many stops there are along the way. Train riders also have the advantage of enjoying some of the most stunning scenery.

Once in Stratford, getting around is quite easy. The city is well laid out and signage directs visitors to leading attractions. It is important to keep in mind that from May to September the population rises significantly. The city has done a good job of preparing for larger crowds, but parking, accommodations and road congestion can be an issue. The best way to defend against crowds is to park the car and walk whenever possible. The river paths are well established and restaurants are extremely close to all of the theatres, although reservations are usually required at some of the more popular eateries, sometimes weeks or months in advance.

FEATURED ATTRACTIONS

While the Stratford Festival takes centre stage as far as attractions go, this city has much more to offer than just theatre. Stratford's high artistic standard, first established here by the music and theatre industry, has leaked through to all art forms. Everywhere you look, area residents celebrate life through art, music and even in the culinary arts.

	Stratford's City Hall Building

Historical Buildings
Aspects of Stratford's past are littered throughout the city in the form of historical buildings and monuments. The city possesses a healthy dose of well-preserved historical buildings that can be found in most neighbourhoods throughout the city.

Ontario Street has the largest offering of exclusive shops and restaurants available in Stratford. Victorian-style buildings adorn both sides of the street and a majority of the shops are still privately owned, maintaining individual flavour in keeping with their exterior charm. Wades Flowers, also located on Ontario Street, has its own claim to fame as the original site of Peter Woods' Albion Hotel, where Thomas Edison stayed when he lived in Stratford for a short time.

Off of Wellington Street, the City Hall building is a spectacular example of true Victorian style. It was constructed between 1898 and 1899 to replace the first City Hall building destroyed by fire the previous year. The building has seen a number of renovations during its tenure, but still remains true to its period.

There are numerous churches throughout Stratford built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The most notable among them include St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church, located on St. Andrews Street, the earliest congregation in Stratford; Knox Presbyterian was destroyed by a fire in 1918 that was also responsible for the death of the fire chief (the church was rebuilt shortly afterward, but what is left of the original still remains in the rear of the newer structure); a true rendition of Gothic style, St. James Anglican Church, located on Mornington Street, was built between 1868 and 1870 and is one of the last churches in Stratford to have a graveyard attached to it.

Art in the Park

Parks, Gardens and Natural Areas
Meticulously kept green spaces and enchanting gardens characterize much of what Stratford is known for and may be why, in 1997, Stratford won top honours in the Nations in Bloom competition for "Prettiest City". The Shakespeare Garden is designed after an English garden featuring plants, herbs and flowers from Shakespeare's plays. Tours of this garden and the Arthur Meighen Gardens, located on the grounds of the Festival Theatre are offered. Millennium Park incorporates lit water features and ponds.

From May 31 to September 28, every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday, art enthusiasts can be sighted at Lakeside Drive and Front Street for Art in the Park, an annual art showcase of local and surrounding area artists.

Some of the most famous actors on Stratford's stage are the swans that call Avon River home. Stratford's swans, ducks and geese are some of the most photographed in the world and have been featured in thousands of posters, books and vacation snapshots commemorating the Stratford experience. The star-struck birds were first introduced to the Avon in 1918 after being presented to the city by a former CNR employee. Some of the swans are descendants from the Royal Swans given to Queen Victoria by Ottawa after her visit in 1967.Every year in March, the Swans are marched from their winter home back to the Avon River in a celebration that attracts many locals.

Shops, Galleries and Restaurants
All that glistens may not be gold, but if it's gems you're after, there are plenty in Stratford. An eclectic blend of shops can cater to the desires of even those who don't know what they desire. If shopping is a sport then Stratford is the ultimate complex. In the soul of Stratford's Ontario Street live an inimitable collection of shops and restaurants. Whether it's rare books, oddities, fashion items, art, gifts or some of the city's best cuisine - Ontario Street has it and more including the only indoor shopping centre, Festival Marketplace. York Street was made popular in the 1980s and is still a favorite watering hole for avid shoppers. Arts and antique stores define the shopping on York and patrons could get lost for the entire day perusing its shops and cafes.

Since the arrival of world-class cooking school's in the last decade or so, fine dining has never been better in Stratford - even the cheeseburgers taste better here. You'll be lucky to get into some of the most popular restaurants during festival months, however, if you don't book well ahead of time.

Those on the hunt for good bargains need not look further than the Stratford Farmers Market, held at the fairgrounds every Saturday. The Farmers Market is a long-standing tradition in the city so, although it does get wall-to-wall busy, guests shouldn't allow the crowds to come between them and that steal-of-a-deal they are looking for.

Since tourists are the main market in Stratford items can be a little pricey. Merchants rely on tourist dollars to keep them afloat year-round. While buyer beware is always applicable, some of the items may be one-of-a-kind, handcrafted treasures not available anywhere else.

The Stratford Festival

	Swans in Millennium Park

Build it and they will come! While this wasn't a Shakespearean line, in 1953 Stratford did just that, and the people did come. Tom Patterson, armed with an entourage of famous theatre types, including Tyrone Gunthrie, a famous director from England, opened the Stratford Festival's first theatre production, King Richard III, in a canvas tent to a sold out crowd. In 1957, the festival got a permanent facility fit for a king - King Lear that is - and the Massey Gold Medal in architecture for designer Robert Fairfield. Several additions to the theatre have given it more accolades including the biggest backstage of any other Canadian theatre with administrative offices, costume department, prop shop, lounge and a cafeteria for staff and performers. The Thrust Stage, designed by Tanya Moiseiwitsch, was built for the tent theatre and moved to the permanent structure when it was built in 1957. The design for the Thrust Stage used in the Festival Theatre has received many accolades for its innovative design and has been the inspiration for many other theatres stages around the world.

For over 50 years, the Stratford Festival has been performing for audiences who come from all corners of the earth to experience it. The Festival runs from the end of May until the end of September and operates in four buildings: The Festival Theatre, The Avon Theatre, the Tom Patterson Theatre and the newest of the group, the Studio Theatre. The Festival has become the largest classic repertory theatre in North America and greets an average of 600,000 visitors a year - a large crowd considering the population of Stratford is only 30,000 people.

Originally the festival performed Shakespeare plays almost exclusively but today a wider variety of repertoire exists. The Studio Theatre is the newest of the four theatres and hosts a variety of shows including a few fringe festivals, original works by Canadian playwrights, one-act plays and rarely produced classics. From June through August, Night Music is a regular Monday night feature with a variety of musical performances by a selection of guest artists.